Eat

How to eat here

Eat in and just below the centro storico for the best combination of atmosphere and choice: the lanes around the cathedral are made for an aperitivo and dinner, while Piazza della Libertà and the old-town edge are the more practical bet for an easier, less steep evening. For a more local, everyday rhythm—bakeries, bars and shopping—look in Borgo Ottocentesco; the countryside masserie are the right splurge for an olive-oil-and-produce-driven long lunch, but require a car and a sober driver.

Extra-virgin olive oil from the ancient groves around Ostuni—taste it simply on local bread, and treat a good oil tasting or mill/masseria visit as part of the food experience. · Orecchiette, especially with tomato sauce, cime di rapa (turnip greens) or a slow-cooked ragù; it is a Puglian staple rather than an Ostuni-only dish. · Fave e cicorie: puréed dried fava beans with bitter wild chicory, a defining, satisfyingly rustic Puglian combination. · Friselle: twice-baked barley or wheat bread rings moistened with water and dressed with tomatoes, olive oil, oregano and sometimes capers—ideal in hot weather. · Panzerotti and focaccia barese for casual eating; the latter is soft, oily bread often topped with tomatoes and olives. · Burrata, mozzarella and other fresh Puglian cheeses, best sought at lunch or early in the day when they are freshest. · Seafood on the coast—raw or simply grilled fish, octopus, mussels and shellfish—especially if you are staying around Villanova; do not expect the coastal settlements to match the old town’s overall dinner range. · Aperitivo followed by a late passeggiata is a real meal tradition here: have a drink and a small plate as the light softens, then sit down to dinner after the early-evening stroll.

• Book dinner in the centro storico in summer, particularly for a terrace or a sought-after table after 20:30. The compact old town gets crowded, and some restaurants trade too heavily on the view; read the menu, ask about the day’s dishes and do not assume the most photogenic terrace is the best value.
• Piazza della Libertà and the old-town edge are the smart dining zone for travelers who want an easy taxi drop-off, less climbing and plenty of evening energy. Go higher into the old town for romance and atmosphere, but expect steep, uneven lanes and more noise in peak season.
• Use Borgo Ottocentesco for a more lived-in food routine: morning coffee, bakeries, groceries and straightforward local bars are generally a better fit than trying to do every meal in the tourist-heavy core.
• For a countryside masseria meal, reserve ahead and confirm the format. These are often destination lunches or set, farm-led meals rather than somewhere to drop into after an evening wander; rural roads are dark and narrow, so a car is essential and driving after a generous meal is a real consideration.
• Lunch is a good time for the region’s heavier classics—orecchiette, fava purée and greens—while friselle, focaccia and panzerotti make useful casual alternatives in the heat. Do not expect an early northern-European dinner: aperitivo comes first, and evening tables fill later.
• Buy picnic supplies in the town rather than relying on the station area or dispersed coastal strips. The railway-station/lower-town area is a transport stop, not a food destination; Costa Merlata, Monticelli and much of the southern coast likewise require planning and a car for groceries and dinner choices.